Sunday, September 22, 2024

 WALKING 

One of the things we've really enjoyed in both Cornwall and the Cotswolds areas of England has been  walking through the beautiful countryside. It gives us a chance to slow down and really SEE, paying attention to nature, farmland and the small villages that make up this part of the world. 

Our preference is to follow the carefully laid-out Public Footpaths, well-marked, well-traveled trails lacing the land into an intricate tapestry for wanderers. Sounds like an easy enough plan. Get the map and directions and follow the trails. OK. So here's the plan for walking from Chipping Campden to Broad Campden, a distance of 2.6 miles. So look at the fifth paragraph: "...walk straight through the gap in the hedge line, through one field and then follow the stream on your left until you reach a gate on your left, pass through the gate and turn right, following the path through an orchard till you come to a gate." Of course we got confused (some people would call it lost) several times each trip, but we always figured it out, sometimes with the help of other walkers. Like the guy who told us we'd be on the right track if we saw the field of brown sheep, and the blackberries. And sure enough. That was exactly right. Never mind that blackberries are growing all over the place in England this time of year. "Pass through the gate and turn right when you reach a small road....." Don't even get me started on the third,fourth and sixth paragraphs. 


















But you know the scenery and the surprises along the way were worth every hard-won step we took....10,000+ per day and counting.


Sunday, September 15, 2024

ABOVE MOUSEHOLE




In our conversations with people, we heard of a little village just a short walk away called Paul!  So, off we went up a narrow two-lane road that in places was hardly wide enough for a car to pass the two of us without forcing us either into a hedge or a stone wall!








Along the way there was no shortage of picturesque scenes of the farmland we passed.  I loved this old barn!  



Paul is just a small community of less than 300 inhabitants, but there in the middle of the quaint homes was St Pol de Leon's Anglican church!  What a stately old building! A church has been in the village since the fifth century, but this tower was constructed in the 1400's.  After the Spaniards destroyed much of the building, it was rebuilt by 1600.  Beautiful music was coming from inside!  A youth orchestra was practicing for a future performance. It was such a serendipity moment.

 





After listening for a while, we made our way out to explore more of the little village.  Beside the church, a man was doing some stonework restoring a nearby building's exterior.  We stopped to chat.  He was an expert in restoration.  He gave us some lessons in the proper mix of a limestone mortar to fill in the spaces between the stones.  It sounded like tuck pointing to me, but he quickly said that tuck-pointing was something else altogether!  What he was doing allowed moisture to escape, and the building to breathe.  Tuck-pointing used concrete and damaged the structure.  My mistake!  What a time-consuming task!  




Before heading back to Mousehole, we had to take a moment at the only business in the village - a pub!  We chatted with a couple of customers in the pub including a local farmer who raised cattle and some vegetables on the beautiful fields around Paul.  Our conversation had barely started when he suddenly got a call and quickly handed his dog's leash to Mary Ann and asked her to watch his dog for a bit!  We just hoped he had plans to return soon!  He did, and we stayed to talked some more.  Just as we were about to leave, he called after us and said:  "Whatever you do on the remainder of your vacation, be sure to GO SLOW!"  Great advice from a new Cornish friend.  



Friday, September 06, 2024

ENGLAND 2024 Mousehole

So, we've been here in Mousehole for three days now and we've been wondering how to introduce you to this wonderful little village.  In many ways, it is so unlike anyplace we've ever been.  It is ancient, quaint, and friendly like many other places in the world, but it puts all those delightful ingredients together in a very unique way.  The specifics can only tell a piece of the story, but we've been impressed by the harbor, the narrow roads, stone homes,  good restaurants, and the dogs! 


This is the view of the harbor at high tide from our front door!


This is looking back at the village of Mousehole from the other side of the harbor.



This is one of the widest roads in the village but even it feels quite small when the bus that brought us here comes in.  A number of the roads are used for two-way traffic but are barely wide enough for one small car.  Somebody has to relent and back up to a wide spot!  Everybody is patient and even the worst tangles get resolved in short order.







The village originally consisted of all wooden structures but in 1595 the Spanish armada attacked the town and burned it all to the ground with the exception of one pub, The Keigwin Arms and that pub is where we ate our first evening meal in Mousehole.  It was delicious!  After the fire, the town was gradually restored and most of the more recent buildings (from the 1600s on) were made of lovely stones.  This photo is that very early pub, now called the Ship's Inn.


As we ate inside the Ship's Inn, we were quickly made aware that most of the restaurants and shops in Mousehole welcome dogs!  Here is one of them and she belongs to this delightful Irish couple here on holiday!  We spent some time chatting about our lives and comparing notes on travel.  Even though the little furry friend was quite young, she was relatively well-behaved until she spotted another of her kind, then she just couldn't contain herself any longer and hurried to make acquaintence.  Dogs are a very common occurance here in Mousehole and we have never seen any of them causing trouble.  The whole place has been a perfect get-away for the both of us!  











Thursday, September 05, 2024

England 2024




After the long, overnight flight from Dayton, Ohio to London Heathrow airport, we boarded the shuttlebus into the city and Paddington Station where we had a couple of hours to wait for the train to Penzance.  It was a great place to begin to acclimate ourselves to the hustle and bustle of this great city.




Of course, a familiar citizen of every major city is the pigeon and several of them had found Paddington station to be a feasting place! From his ceiling roost, one of these guys was able to drop a perfectly aimed deposit on Mary Ann's head!  A kind stranger had a spare wet-wipe for the clean-up.  A London welcome?




From London, we boarded the train for a smooth but 5 1/2 hour trip to Penzance in the SW corner of England. People around us were so helpful and friendly. Since one of our main goals for this trip is renewal and rest, there couldn't be a better way to start the journey than watching the Cornwall rural landscape roll by with its fine collection of picturesque villages, cattle and sheep, and uncluttered peacefulness!








The train ride stopped at Penzance where we boarded the bus for a short trip to our destination for a week - Mousehole in Cornwall!  This small village is just gorgeous if you like quaint, ancient fishing villages by the sea!  When we arrived, it was high tide so the harbor was filled with fishing vessels all floating on the water rather than lying askew on wet sand! It was perfect!  This village of around 700 population is scattered on the hillside.  The summer crowds are reduced to a comfortable level but the place is still eager to welcome strangers and invite them to experience a taste of architecture most of us in the United States have never seen.





The cottage we were able to rent for the week is called "Even Keel" and once was the residence of the author of the famous children's book The Mousehole Cat which was later made into a movie!  It is an old fisherman's home but has been beautifully restored and suits us to a "T."  Several of its windows look out on the harbor and it is only a short walk to the town's center!  It's the perfect place to rest so we have settled in with deep contentment. 




Tuesday, December 02, 2014

Journey To The Sea--We arrive at last!



Well, it’s been a big eventful week here in California and we have been able to share special family time, as well as see more of this amazing country. While we’ve not quite gone from sea to shining sea on this trip, we were finally able to enjoy the Pacific part of it on a warm and beautiful December morning.
THE CALIFORNIA BEACH

 But first things first. On our way into Los Angeles to visit Sarah, Brian, Ethan and Brandon, we stopped for a wonderful visit and walk through part of Joshua Tree National Park.
JOSHUA TREE
We had been there once before, several years ago and loved it so we wanted to make a return visit before hitting the busy world of LA. We found the southern part of the park to be quite different than the northern part, with very few of the Joshua trees and huge rocks we remembered.
WALKING JOSHUA TREE
But our walk on the Cottonwood Spring trail was quite a powerful desert experience; we found that the deep silence, the isolation and finally a surprise lush oasis of bright yellow cottonwood spoke to us in some wordless, profound way.

COTTONWOOD SPRINGS JOSHUA TREE

We’re finding these walks through the parks to be important parts of our journey as we touch the earth and immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds, smells and feel of each place.

The days with family were hectic, fun times. We took the boys to the local playground, visited the trains at Travel Town in the wonderful large Griffith Park,
 TRAVEL TOWN
RIDING THE TRAIN
saw the movie Big Hero 6, feasted with extended family on
Thanksgiving Day, and even had a special “un-birthday party” and toy shopping excursion. Most importantly of all, we were able to spend lots of time with some of the most precious people in our lives, getting reconnected and reacquainted in ways we’re only able to do by “hanging out”.

During the week there, the two of us took a day for ourselves since we wanted to get over to the ocean and touch our toes in the cold Pacific waters. We started out at one of our favorite west coast hangouts, Mutt Lynch’s, at Newport Beach.
MUTTS AT THE BEACH
NEWPORT BEACH
We had lunch before strolling the boardwalk and the sandy California beach. Quite a treat in late November for these Ohio folks!
Next we headed down the Pacific Coast Highway hugging the coastline through the multimillion dollar neighborhoods of Orange County into the small and lovely town of San Juan Capistrano.


 Our goal was to tour the mission established there in 1776 and since we arrived shortly before dusk, we were able to take pictures and explore at a truly magical time.

MISSION AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

The buildings are restored and it was interesting to see the original chapel walls as well as the housing, courtyard and grounds where the Indians and missionaries spent their lives so many years ago.

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO ARCHES
We left California on Saturday and now we’re on our journey home. We’re spending a few days in New Mexico, around the Santa Fe area, before the final leg of the trip.  We look forward to being home again but have a lot of miles to go before then. Meanwhile, happy travels!

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

JOURNEY TO THE SEA (5) 2014



I am writing this entry on November 25.  We arrived in Los Angeles on Thursday, the 20th and actually made it to the Pacific ocean yesterday!  It’s been almost 4000 miles of U.S. highways and byways!  We are enjoying Mary Ann’s daughter Sarah, her husband Brian and their two boys Ethan and Brandon as well as soaking in the California sun!  But more of that story will have to wait until a later blog entry. 

All the way through the trip, we’ve been trying to pay attention – not just to the beauty of nature nor just to the fascinating variety in our human family, but also to what is going on inside ourselves.  After the mountains of Colorado, the wonders of Arches, Canyonlands, and Zion National parks, and then the expansiveness of the Grand Canyon, we both knew that we needed a change of pace.  So we headed down to Prescott, Arizona (the other mile-high city) and arranged for a room for 5 nights.  


EL GATO AZUL RESTAURANT
Prescott not only offered us a place to regroup, but also a taste of city life, warmer temperatures, and proximity to several places of interest for day trips.  Prescott’s restaurants were a treat - especially the discovery of this little place, El Gato Azul (“The Blue Cat”).  Not only were the tapas tasty, but the jazz group was excellent.   




JAZZ GROUP AT EL GATO AZUL
















EMBRY RIDDLE U. LIBRARY


Prescott is home to Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University where Brian went to school and became certified as a professional pilot.  The city is also known for its many walking trails. The city web site boasts 68 miles of trails while the U.S. Forrest Service has around 450 miles of hiking trails within easy access of Prescott.  Our choice for a day’s enjoyment was the Watson Lake Trail.  You can see why!  It was an amazing choice!

FIGHTER PILOT IN TRAINING

WATSON LAKE TRAIL
WATSON LAKE TRAIL
























Another day we headed to Sedona. Another great place for a hike!  The Airport Loop Trail nearly took our breath away as we walked on the very edge of a precipice that would just ruin your whole day if you made one false step.  And we were so glad we didn’t miss the Chapel of the Holy Cross, built into the rocky mountainside.  It was certainly sacred space.  And how about shopping in the Tiaquepaque Mall!  A beautiful Mall (didn't even 
know that was possible!) where you can no more pronounce the name than you can pay the prices!

AIRPORT LOOP TRAIL

AIRPORT LOOP TRAIL










 






CHAPEL OF HOLY CROSS

CHAPEL OF HOLY CROSS


TIAQUEPIAQUE SHOPPING MALL




JEROME MAIN STREET
On another day, we traveled to Jerome, Arizona. The road alone is an adventure!  In the late 19th century, it was a booming copper mining town of 15,000 population who offered these thirsty, lonely miners all of the saloons and extra-curricular activities those men craved.  So, when in Rome…we ate at the Bordello Restaurant!  Now-a-days, the only things on the menu are things that satisfy the taste buds and the surviving 448 people make it the largest ghost town in the country!  

BORDELLO MENU













Three hundred and eighty miles later, we drove into Sarah and Brian’s drive and have been enjoying the “family time” that our distance apart makes all too rare.  Hope you all have a wonderful and gratitude-filled Thanksgiving!
  

Monday, November 17, 2014

Our Journey Continues



In the past 3 weeks, we’ve discovered a whole part of the country that is as foreign to us as any foreign country we’ve ever encountered. Having grown up and lived all of our lives in the Midwest and the East, we have never experienced, except for a couple of brief jaunts, the vast open deserts and rocky landscapes that comprise so much of these southwestern states. There has been one surprise after another; each day, it seems, we’re met with something to startle us and make us remember again how diverse and grand is the world we live in.
Somewhere In Colorado or Utah
As we walk among the red canyons and cottonwood trees, as we sit on high cliffs overlooking winding rivers, as we step upon the grassy land that is inhabited by the Native peoples, and as we spend time in small isolated towns sitting in river valleys, we are feeling blessed by the beauty and vastness of our country, while knowing that other people in other lands also hold dear to the beauty of the places they inhabit. As you can tell, this trip is, for us, not just a “vacation” but also a spiritual exercise of sorts, helping us to open up our hearts and minds as we journey. We are trying to practice some mindfulness amidst the adventures, and some meaningfulness beyond the historical markers.




So what have we been doing, you ask? Well, here’s a random selection that I’ll let you sort out for yourselves.
Small town in Utah

 For our visit to Arches National Park, we weren’t able to get a motel room at the nearest town because of several festivals that were going on so we ended up about 50 miles away in a small town called Green River Utah. Although it was right off I-70, it was quite remote. For example, just east of there, through western Colorado and eastern Utah, we drove 160 miles without seeing one house, animal or person; the few exits all had signs warning that no services were available. We stayed at a small, family-run motel called Robbers Roost (so named because that area had been the hideout of several well-known, old-west bad guys like Butch Cassidy). When we got home from dinner one night, we found a typed note on our bed that said…and I quote…”We wanted you to be aware that the power is going to be out tonight from 10 pm to 2 am. The power company is doing some maintenance on our substation during that time and the whole town will be turned off.” Sure enough, at 10 pm, bam!…our lights went out and the whole town became pitch black.


We’ve visited several National Parks on our trip so far: Arches, Canyonlands, Zion and Grand Canyon. Each has its own beauty and each is so different from the other. That surprised us. I think we had sort of lumped all of them together into this sort of amorphous blob of big red rocks and canyons. Sure, there were some of those but it’s hard to describe how different each one looks and feels. But I’ll try. Arches was majestic. It has a jaw-dropping entrance road that twists and winds its way up, up, up along a sheer cliff. There are huge red rocks, many sitting precariously on top of others, and of course loads of arched formations, something like 2000 I think. (See previous blog post for pictures of Arches). Canyonlands, just southwest of Arches, had beautiful red, striated canyons that we could view from the top. We walked a rocky trail lined with prickly pear cactus and small, scrubby brush, to the edge of a cliff where we watched the sunset. 

Canyonlands
Canyonlands
Canyonlands at Dusk





 Zion was our favorite park. Unlike some of the other parks, we were right in the canyon and it was filled, not only with the huge red-hued cliffs, but also with amazing bright yellow cottonwood trees and red maples.
Zion

Riverside Walk at Zion
Weeping Rock Trail at Zion
Finally the Grand Canyon. What can we say??!! It’s BIG. And GRAND. We spent several hours there, walking the South Rim trail and taking lots of pictures. One of our favorite things there was The Watchtower, a building from the 1930’s, in which we climbed the 85 steps to the top to view the Canyon from the highest point on the South Rim. The inside is circular and painted with beautiful artwork by a Hopi artist.

Grand Canyon South Rim





Inside Watchtower at Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon South Rim
 One day, on our way between Utah and Arizona, we were passing a national monument called Pipe Spring and decided to stop. And are we glad we did. It was a Mormon site, built as a bastion, to protect against the “Gentiles” who were persecuting and killing the Mormons, and also was, and continues to be, a part of the Kaibab Paiute lands. We were given a private tour by a very knowledgeable Paiute man who explained the life of the Mormon man and his three wives and 20 some children who lived there, as well as the relationship between the Native peoples,  the Mormons and the other whites who all vied for a place near the four springs that were in the area.
Covered wagon at Pipe Spring

Pipe Spring Mormon Fort

Inside Pipe Spring Fort
Benn Our Paiute Guide
We’re now in Prescott Arizona and enjoying 5 days in this beautiful lush area that is a vibrant city filled with restaurants, art galleries as well as the beautiful scenery we’ve grown accustomed to. We’ll keep you posted as we continue our journey to the sea.